jedijingle

My Feedback: (45)

I'm doing a group-build on a few of these babies and thought I would do a pictoral while I go. If you guys are interested, that is. I'm excited to get to work on the assembly of this jet because it's the nicest ARF I've ever seen. Everyone is saying that these days, I know, but it really is. I call it "assembly" because I always laugh when I see "build" written in reference to ARF's. This one requires no building, just adding my stuff, but I thought some of you might be interested. I'll start posting pics in the next couple of days. I gotta give a shout-out to my buddy Shaun for his help, advice and good service.

I'll post some general pics of what came in the boxes first. I am really impressed with the gear. Everyone's making good landing gear these days, it seems. These came with all the odds and ends like tubing, spare screws and clips, and metal t-fittings. They also included adjustable valves for the gear, brakes and speed-brake--though I plan to use Ultra Precision gear/door sequencers.

I'm also very impressed with the pipe. I was told it was of better quality than the Tam pipes I've bought previously, and a side-by-side comparison has me in agreement. This pipe was $50 less, too. It came with mounting tabs for the back, too, which my Tam pipes didn't come with. They shipped it with little graduated wood rings taped to the back to protect the exhaust end from crushing which was a thoughtful idea.

Shaun suggested I shim the landing gear in because the mounting plates leave the gear stance more splayed out than scale. I used a 1/4"x 2.5" piece of 1/8" lite ply and glued it to the outer rail. This step added about 5 minutes to the assembly, but I can already see how much better it looks without the gear split out to far.

More to come!

Craig B.

Yes we are interested....please keep the info coming. I am about to start mine also.

jedijingle

My Feedback: (45)

Hey Craig. Are you the guy who Shaun took too long in getting you your refund (sorry, Shaun )? I hope that all worked out. I know Shaun and Charles both speak very highly of you. I guess you've had yours a while, now. What are you putting in it?

Shaun Evans

Hey,

Hardy har har....... Yeah, I screw one up every once in a while.........

Craig, I'm glad you're finally getting yours going!

Ian R

Yes please keep the thread going. I am finally about to start mine having just finished another project to the ready for painting stage, a so called ARF by another manufacturer.

Ref the F15, I agree with your comments about assembly I will probably finish both models to the ready for flight standard at the same time!

Ian

Craig B.

Hey Jedi and Shaun,

Yes I am the guy and I must say that Shaun did rectify my problem as promised....thank you Shaun. I have just finished another fitout job on a F16 while also building my Mig 29 and am now going to start my yellow ARF F15. I posted on another thread about this model. I have never been more impressed when I received an ARF model like this. If you consider the amount of time required to finish the model to this standard, the value is excellent.

It would be great to exchange ideas on how to fitout this jet. I would be happy to post my pics but I am only at the "let me think about this" stage. I seem to sit there looking at the thing for hours and get nothing done, and I only start when I know where everything is going.

I am putting a Jetcat 120 in mine. I will mount the solenoids and fuel pump on the floor of the fuse. I haven't finalized the position of the ecu yet. I don't like having these near the receiver. I will use a weatronic to avoid using matchboxes on the flaps and elevators. I want to add a full set of lights to mine, including in the fins and that will be a challenge but I have already worked how I can run the cables. I did the same thing on my avonds F15 after I had primed it and did not damage anything so I should be ok. I will make the canopy functional and use an air ram to lock it down.

The only thing I don't like is the mechanism for holding the hatch down. I know Charles hates hatch latches but I think I will install them for ease of use. I can see that great paint job being damaged otherwise.

Jedi, thanks for the positive feedback. I thought I might have become known as a PITA, but if not, that's great.

Let's keep this thread going and have some fun with this one!

Craig.

Ehab

My Feedback: (44)

I have a few projects ahead of this one, but I am "thinking" of installing two small turbines in mine. The plane can take the extra weight. So guys, keep the pics and ideas coming. This is a very nice ARF and the price is very reasonable considering all the hand work done. I wish Charles would do an F18 twin ARF in the same way as this F15....I know he does the 18 only as a special order.

I was thinking of using two servos for the canopy open/lock (with the 14MZ Tx). Also, a servo for proportional speed brake. That way you can slow them down to look scale, what do you guys think?

loucel-RCU

My Feedback: (57)

Ehab,
what kind of turbines are you setting up, p-60's??? interested in the twin format.....
we have three up here in Seattle,one of us is ahead of the game, I'll tell him to post some pictures, he has a very simple set up for the canopy
one air cylinder to open and close,and two small servos to lock it in place....

Regards

Roberto

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Sung Kim had two Bees in his Yellow F-15. If I recall, the installation looked cleaner than the single. The plane can get home on one of those, too. The speed brake operation on the F-15 is pretty fast if I recall.

Ehab

My Feedback: (44)

Not sure yet, it will be a while before I get to it. But I would go for either P70, Wrens or Super Bees....

Yeah, have him post some pics!!!

reznor

My Feedback: (4)

OK. I'll post up Roberto. Here is what I came up with for mine. Thanks to Bryce for encouraging me to take the time to make the canopy functional.

I used 2 micro servos for the latches. They are mounted to the back of the cockpit tub. They move 2 4-40 threaded rods that go forward and bend up and back through brass tubes in the front windscreen frame and the front of the canopy frame. They are connected to a Jetronics sequencer and a Matchbox to synch the servos. The air cylinder that raises/lowers the canopy is actuated by a Robart valve attached to the sequencer. The sequencer is set up for "doors open" (disengages latches), "gear down" (canopy opens), "doors stay open" (latches stay disengaged), "gear up" (canopy closes), "doors close" (latches engage canopy).

It seems to be a very strong latching set-up and works reliably. The photos show the different components and the latches in both open and closed position.

I still need to clean everything up and paint some of the nicks I put in the finish, etc. so excuse the mess.

Bill B.

Ehab

My Feedback: (44)

I see you are using the electronic switch. So I guess you keep the canopy open when the jet is off?

reznor

My Feedback: (4)

Yes, the canopy needs to stay unlocked/open when the switch is turned off. Once the air is out of the system the canopy can be manually opened and closed for access to the switch.

Bill B.

Shaun Evans

Hey,

I got a little bit of work done on this one. My customer is using 8411s on both wing controls (ailerons and flaps). While it's a snug fit, both servos fit under the prefabbed hatch. I use very standard but reliable hardware on this. I've got 4-40 Dubro silver-soldered clevises on one end and Sullivan threaded Gold-n-clevises on the other. I internally reversed one of the flap servos, so everything moves as it should.

loucel-RCU

My Feedback: (57)

Shaun,
I have a ball link on the aileron servo horn, it seems like the aileron horn angle changes as it is deflected. ?
is this not happening in yours?
Regards

Roberto

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Yes, there is a slight twisting due to the angles involved, but the aileron throw is so small that the linkage train seems to absorb enough of the twist. There's just enough side-to-side play in the linkage to allow for that twist without binding, and without noticeable slop. There are other surfaces, though, where I'll use a ball cup for just that reason. Got any pics of yours?

loucel-RCU

My Feedback: (57)

Shaun,
Good point on the deflection angles, (trhow), I'll take some pics tonight,
Regards,
Roberto

loucel-RCU

My Feedback: (57)

Here are some pictures of the ball link at the elevator servo control horn, sorry about the quality,

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Unpacked my F15 (I bought the last one Yellow had ) this weekend and now looking forward to starting the build so PLEASE re-start the build thread!

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

A couple of gear questions...Is there a secret to getting the 2 rear 6-32 screws and blind nuts into the front gear block? Or did everyone just use blind nuts on the front and lock nuts on the rear? Second, do you have to take the main gear apart to get it in place?

Craig B.

Hi JC

I managed to get 6-32 bolts and blind nuts in on mine but I had to use a cut down allen wrench to tighten them. I didn't have to disassemble the main gear to get it into place.

Are you guys using the stock yellow tanks or are you using the Jet-tech tanks?

Craig.

jclittle

My Feedback: (99)

Craig - thanks for the answer. I bought the std tanks from Yellow, they were $90, the Jet Tech pair is $180. I have seen several other F15's with the Jet Tech's - guess its up to you. I was thinking to make the front gear install easier (and removal if necessary) to use the 6-32 w/blind nuts on the front and then use 6-32 bolts w/nylon insert lock nuts facing in the opposite direction for the rear ones. They could be taken out from inside the fuse instead of painfully from the bottom a 1/4 turn at a time. Anyone else doing this?

AlW

My Feedback: (17)

Craig/jc,
I drilled (2) small holes in the bottom of the fuselage opposite the rear nose gear bolts. They can be easily installed/removed with a ball driver. Regarding tanks I am using the Jet Tech ones but I have a pretty hard interference with the outboard side rail of the retracts. I will probably have to shim the retracts away from the tank and put a rub strip on the tank to prevent damage-anyone else noticed this problem?
Al Watson

Craig B.

Hi JC,

Your suggestion sounds liike a fair solution if you want to avoid drilling a couple of holes in the fuse or pulling your hair out like me I drilled out the rear holes with a right angled drill fitting on my cordless drill so I could get the blind nuts in place.

Al, with your tanks installed, how far is the outboard side of the tank from the wing root on the fuse?

Thanks,

Craig.

AlW

My Feedback: (17)

Hi Craig,
The Jet Tech tanks slide all the way into the fuse so the outboard side of the tank is against the wing root. As I said in my earlier post the retracts will have to be shimmed down a little to allow proper installation of the tanks -guessing about .10 inches. I will let you know how much I had to shim when I do that work.
Al Watson