Lightningrusty

So first I'm new to the forum and new to electric rc. I have ran a few nitros for the past few years. So I found this rustler in a pawn shop about a month ago for 40$. Got it home and charged the nickel battery and plugged everything up. Everything worked perfect! I took it outside and ran it a bit. It seemed pretty peppy. Under more investigation I figure out its running a sidewinder esc and 4600kv castle creations motor! This is where the trouble started.
I picked up a 11.1v 3s Lipo and charger about two weeks ago. Now I have a severe overheating issue. After about 10 min it goes into thermal protection mode. Any ideas on where to start with overcoming this problem. Is appreciated. Wanna get back out there.

RustyUs

You did gear down from the stock recommended gearing. Right?

Lightningrusty

I haven't changed the gearing at all. I'll see what the gearing is when I get home and post back up. It seems to have an unlimited top speed. Or at least one I just can't reach in radio control range.

Are you saying the motor is possibly having to work to hard to pull the vehicle?

RustyUs

Normally when I start adding more cells, or more motor, I go down a few teeth count on the pinion gear...sometimes I gear down a lot .

Your motor is running at what temps?

RustyUs

I have seen/read and been told the following generalization of temps. Just remember, there are many variables that come into play:

hot esc + cold motor + hot battery = over geared
cold esc + hot motor + cold battery = under geared
warm everything = just right.

Over geared motors, and binding issues can also lead to hotter motor temps as well...that's my problem I run into more than anything.

Lightningrusty

I believe it's 27/86. My setup is running hot esc hot motor normal temp battery. And when I say hot, I'm talking in ten minutes it stops moving and starts flashing thermal protection mode and is hot enough you can't hold your finger to the esc or the motor for more than a second. I build gokart also so I'm somewhat familiar with gearing aspects. Do you have a recommendation for what tooth count I should try first? Gearing down will also increase acceleration right? I also found a fan kit for the esc and motor I plan to purchase before the weekend. That should help drop the temps a little. Maybe with the fans I won't have to gear down too much because I do not need any more acceleration. I can't use full throttle as it is. I have a hard time keeping it right side up and it blows holes in anaconda jato tires in about ten runs. Thank you for the help

Lightningrusty

How do I post pictures? Have to wait somany days or something? This forum layout is different than any others I'm on.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

To post picks, use the "Insert Image" icon on the tool bar.
Yeah, you're geared too high for 3S. You're at 27/86? Try 22 on the pinion. When you go from 2S to 3S, you always have to gear down a bit. Get yourself an IR thermometer to monitor, and KNOW (not just guess), your motor temps. It's the best way to determine proper gearing. And protect your system. A brushless motor should not get over 180F, EVER. Gear the vehicle so max temp never exceeds 160F, and usually runs in the 145F range. I've NEVER had to worry about my ESC. Never ever had one go into thermal shutdown.

Lightningrusty

Stopped at the lhs yesterday on the way home. Picked up a 23 tooth pinion. Same result. I do have a temp gun around here somewhere. If I can't find it this evening and get some readings I'll pick up another one in the morning. The lhs also had a 20 and 18 tooth count. Keep dropping? 4$ isn't gonna stop me from fixing this if I need to go lower.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

That should have lowered the temperature some. If you're still over heating, maybe you've got some binding somewhere. Or a failed bearing or two. One bearing that has seized can cause a system to get hotter than normal. Get out the wrenches and check all the bearings. You have to know how hot is hot. Only way to do that is with a temp gun.

Lightningrusty

Hot enough to shut it down. I WILL have temp readings on shut down tonight. I put all new bearings and carriers in Sunday evening. Checked again for any binding last night before I ran it. I'll check back in tonight with temp gun readings. Thanks for sticking with me

mrbuggy1987

dont forget to set your pinion/spur mesh right.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Oh jeez, forget to mention that. But would too tight a mesh overheat the ESC? Motor, yeah, but ESC? But something to check, nonetheless. Mesh is set by loosening the motor mount screws so you can slide the motor and pinion toward and away from the spur. Slip a piece of folded paper between the pinion and spur gears, then slide the motor and pinion into the spur. Slowly tighten the screws. Roll the paper out and your mesh is set.

If going from 27 to 23 on the pinion and the ESC is still going into thermal shutdown, I'm starting to suspect an ESC that's gone bad. Which is pretty unusual. Is the fan still working?

Lightningrusty

I'm not running fans. I was going to order the kit this weekend. Be back in a few with the temp readings. Got to bash it for a minute

Lightningrusty

Esc temp is between 168 and 175 at shutdown. Motor was about 100

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Holy smokes!! 😨 That's way too hot for the ESC. Obviously. Just to have a reference, what's your ambient temperature during a run? I mean, it's not 100f outside is it? Is there a fan on the ESC? No? Install a fan. If yes, then there must be something internal amiss with the ESC.

<face palm> Wait, this is a Traxxas, "the fastest name in radio control". The Rustler is much like my Duratrax Evader, and that car runs a 20/86 pinion/spur stock. I'll betcha that 27t pinion was the "speed run" gearing. If the guy who had it before you was running the speed gearing all the time, he probably fubar'ed the ESC from over heating it, got frustrated with it, and dumped it on you!

That's my opinion, bro. I think your ESC is toast. Sorry man, that sucks. But like I said, you can slap a $75 Hobbywing system in that car and it'll do 40mph with a 4300kv. Mine does. 😉

FlapJackFred

You can fit a 90T spur gear on top shaft. But with the 86T spure gear you will only be able to fit a 15T pinion gear in there. That's about as low of gearing as you're gonna get. Maybe that's an option before you throw in the towel.

RustyUs

I like to run the biggest spur gear I can fit underneath the gear cover when running higher kv motors. Over the years, you start to get a collection of pinion gears to have at your disposal. I've come to the conclusion that a 48P 15T pinion gear is as small as I can fit in most of my 1/10 scale 2wd platforms running an 86T~88T spur gear. Besides, any lower than a 15T pinion gear, and you start to get pinions with grooves cut into the base of the gear.

Lightningrusty

Steering servo went down. Will replace it this weekend and hopefully a whole new set of tires. Have torn up all the tires I own with this thing. Also gonna get the 18t spur gear and try it. I'll post up what happens this weekend hopefully. Super busy with the old job this week. Which is good I guess. More part money for the money pit

RustyUs

Gotta work to play . If you don't mind me asking...What servo are you talking about? Sorry. I always like to know what people use in their RCs.

Lightningrusty

It's a stock traxxas servo

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

"Went down"? Did the servo motor die, or did the gears strip? Usually the gears strip on stock servos. Which is why no one replaces a stock servo with another stock servo.

Lightningrusty

I don't believe it's stripped just getting weak. And not returning completely to center. I'll pull it apart and see if it's stripped. I believe it's just old