Build an Ashley MM
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Build an Ashley MM
A couple months ago I was wondering what to build this winter. Bruce Coffey came through with one of the early Ashley designs. He had the fuselage mold for the Carl Silva Ashley and was willing to send it to Kevin Matney of Matney's Models for a future short kit.
Here are a few pictures of the original Silva Ashley:
Here are a few pictures of the original Silva Ashley:
Last edited by sahartman21; 12-21-2015 at 02:56 PM.
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Build an Ashley MM
The Ashley MM is based upon the original fuselage but the final model is an update of the original design. These include:
So what do you get when you purchase a Matney's Model kit?
http://www.matneymodels.com/index.html
You can order the "Ashley MM" now by selecting one Kevin's QM40 size models. Add in the comments to send the "Ashley MM" instead. You can call Kevin if you have any questions.
The pictures are of my two kits:
- Gary James providing updated wing airfoils for reduced drag
- Kevin Matney increasing the horizontal stabilizer area by increasing the span from 14" to 15"
- Going to a 2" spinner instead of a 1 3/4" spinner (on at least one prototype)
So what do you get when you purchase a Matney's Model kit?
- Epoxy glass fuselage and belly pan
- Wing cores
- Sketch of the stabilizer
- Landing gear blanks
http://www.matneymodels.com/index.html
You can order the "Ashley MM" now by selecting one Kevin's QM40 size models. Add in the comments to send the "Ashley MM" instead. You can call Kevin if you have any questions.
The pictures are of my two kits:
Last edited by sahartman21; 12-22-2015 at 10:26 AM.
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Hi Scott, or Kevin,
This looks interesting. I looked on the Q40 approved designs. I would guess this is an approved design. Does it show up under another name than those given in this thread, or is the NMPRA site not updated yet?
Cheers
Doug S.
This looks interesting. I looked on the Q40 approved designs. I would guess this is an approved design. Does it show up under another name than those given in this thread, or is the NMPRA site not updated yet?
Cheers
Doug S.
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Build an Ashley MM
2/18/16 Update: The nose cone from the original mold was found to have down thrust. The nose must be aligned to the wing first before beginning the process of installing the firewall and engine.
I began by reviewing previous installations to identify key dimensions. It is approximately 3 3/4" from the back of the spinner to the firewall.
I began by reviewing previous installations to identify key dimensions. It is approximately 3 3/4" from the back of the spinner to the firewall.
Last edited by sahartman21; 02-18-2016 at 08:18 AM.
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There was no pattern for the firewall so a template was sized based upon the outside dimension of the fuselage.
An end section from the shipping box was used. Begin by approximating the size and adjust the hole until the template fits the area associated with the front of the firewall.
An end section from the shipping box was used. Begin by approximating the size and adjust the hole until the template fits the area associated with the front of the firewall.
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Trace the shape on a 3/8" thick section of aircraft plywood.
Cut out the firewall using your favorite method.
Fit the firewall by sanding or grinding away from the high spots.
Cut out the firewall using your favorite method.
Fit the firewall by sanding or grinding away from the high spots.
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The motor mount is slid into the fuselage and the engine is attached.
Continue to fit areas around the needle valve, venturi, and spray bar.
Continue to fit areas around the needle valve, venturi, and spray bar.
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Temporarily install the firewall and insure it fits snug by tapping it in place.
Tack the motor mount to the firewall with medium CA.
Remove the engine and drill the holes for the motor mount screws.
Tack the motor mount to the firewall with medium CA.
Remove the engine and drill the holes for the motor mount screws.
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Remove the engine and firewall from the model.
I use a piece of tubing for the engine kill. The ID of the tubing is approximately 1/4".
A hole is drilled for the tubing.
The engine mount holes are enlarged to fit the blind nuts and they are installed.
The engine kill tube was installed.
I use a piece of tubing for the engine kill. The ID of the tubing is approximately 1/4".
A hole is drilled for the tubing.
The engine mount holes are enlarged to fit the blind nuts and they are installed.
The engine kill tube was installed.
Last edited by sahartman21; 12-26-2015 at 02:55 PM.
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About 1/2 ounce of finishing epoxy was mixed. A small amount was applied to the front of the firewall.
The engine, motor mount, and firewall were reinstalled.
The spacer and spinner were installed and taped in place. The muffler was installed and taped in place.
The engine, motor mount, and firewall were reinstalled.
The spacer and spinner were installed and taped in place. The muffler was installed and taped in place.
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Some cotton flock was added to the remaining finishing epoxy.
The mix was pored onto the back side of the firewall joints. A piece of balsa was used to spread out the mix around the joints.
Clean up any mess on the fuselage and set it out of the way to dry.
The mix was pored onto the back side of the firewall joints. A piece of balsa was used to spread out the mix around the joints.
Clean up any mess on the fuselage and set it out of the way to dry.
Last edited by sahartman21; 12-26-2015 at 03:21 PM.
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The engine was removed and some front motor mount supports were added.
Begin by sanding the surface in front of the mount to allow for good glue contact.
Cover the engine mount holes with Vaseline. Spread Vaseline over two screws and attach them in front of the mount.
Cut up some pieces of fiberglass cloth.
Mix about 1/2 ounce of 6-minute epoxy. Add the cloth until thick.
Dab the mixture over the screws and contact the side wall. In about two minutes wet your fingers and form the epoxy in front of the mount.
Begin by sanding the surface in front of the mount to allow for good glue contact.
Cover the engine mount holes with Vaseline. Spread Vaseline over two screws and attach them in front of the mount.
Cut up some pieces of fiberglass cloth.
Mix about 1/2 ounce of 6-minute epoxy. Add the cloth until thick.
Dab the mixture over the screws and contact the side wall. In about two minutes wet your fingers and form the epoxy in front of the mount.
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The next few pictures shows the location of the wing spars. The primary function of these are to support the landing gear blocks.
A friend of mine uses his radial arm saw to cut the 1/8" slots for the spars.
Others cut the slots with a thin hand saw.
Note: This first picture should have shown 6 3/8" from Axle to TE.
A friend of mine uses his radial arm saw to cut the 1/8" slots for the spars.
Others cut the slots with a thin hand saw.
Note: This first picture should have shown 6 3/8" from Axle to TE.
Last edited by sahartman21; 12-27-2015 at 04:56 PM.
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2/18/16 Update: The nose cone from the original mold was found to have down thrust. The nose must be aligned to the wing first before beginning the process of installing the firewall and engine.
The newer generation of Ashley designs have a shorter nose this one. I am going to build my Ashley with a shorter nose (about 0.7") than the original design to review the impacts. This version will not be as short (6") as the BC Ashley or Two Sweet, but the length (6.75") should be within about 3/4" of those designs. These changes will increase the spinner size to 2".
Begin by marking the cut line about 3/4" from the front of the nose.
Next was cutting off the nose with a Dremel tool.
The shape was trued using a sanding block with 220 grit sandpaper.
A Dremel was later used to roughen the inside surface of the nose (to allow the epoxy to later stick).
The newer generation of Ashley designs have a shorter nose this one. I am going to build my Ashley with a shorter nose (about 0.7") than the original design to review the impacts. This version will not be as short (6") as the BC Ashley or Two Sweet, but the length (6.75") should be within about 3/4" of those designs. These changes will increase the spinner size to 2".
Begin by marking the cut line about 3/4" from the front of the nose.
Next was cutting off the nose with a Dremel tool.
The shape was trued using a sanding block with 220 grit sandpaper.
A Dremel was later used to roughen the inside surface of the nose (to allow the epoxy to later stick).
Last edited by sahartman21; 02-18-2016 at 08:19 AM.