FokkeRC 1/5 Spitfire MKIX build log
02-23-2022, 11:15 AM
#201
Thread Starter
02-25-2022, 05:32 AM
#202
Thread Starter
Finished up roughing in the left side fairing, also had some trailing edge work to do around the saddle. Caught the right side up to the left with sheeting, next I think I’ll tackle the canopy rails then I can complete skinning the fuse.
02-25-2022, 05:43 AM
#204
Thread Starter
Thanks flyer, getting those fairings to match camber, curvature and shape stretched my balsa working skills for sure, but I’m fairly happy with the lines.
02-26-2022, 05:10 AM
#206
Thread Starter
Ran out of time on this break, yesterday I was able to sheet the right side fuse around the cockpit and up to where I’ll hard mount my upper cowl. I also mapped out my rails for the canopy on this side. I’ll get the other side skinned, and caught up next time I’m home. I had to throw the pilot in there for kicks.
02-26-2022, 06:37 AM
#208
Thread Starter
02-26-2022, 08:05 AM
#209
Maybe one these will give you ideas.
https://ziroligiantscaleplans.com/sc...t-warbird.html
https://www.dbalsa.com/accessories/s...ccessories.htm
https://ziroligiantscaleplans.com/sc...t-warbird.html
https://www.dbalsa.com/accessories/s...ccessories.htm
02-26-2022, 09:07 AM
#210
Thread Starter
Maybe one these will give you ideas.
https://ziroligiantscaleplans.com/sc...t-warbird.html
https://www.dbalsa.com/accessories/s...ccessories.htm
https://ziroligiantscaleplans.com/sc...t-warbird.html
https://www.dbalsa.com/accessories/s...ccessories.htm
02-26-2022, 12:05 PM
#213
Senior Member
Actuonix also makes linear actuators. Should be enough room behind the cockpit for one with long enough travel between the vertical stab and to canopy to get you scale travel. Be either open or closed, no in between. They are similar to a gear actuator in some respects.
Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 02-26-2022 at 05:34 PM.
02-26-2022, 01:20 PM
#214
Thread Starter
Actuonix also makes l8near actuators. Should be ebough room behibd the cockpit fot one with long enough travel between the vertical stab and to canopy to get you scale travel. Be either open or closed, no in between. They are similar to a gear actuator in some respects.
02-28-2022, 06:16 PM
#216
Thread Starter
03-01-2022, 07:26 AM
#221
Thread Starter
I figured as much,
I looked into those linear servos. They are proud of them! I’m not sure I have many other options unfortunately. I’m doing a full cockpit from Jiri at jpwarbirds so I’d love to be able to properly display it. I just need to decide if a servo powered canopy is worth it or just go man powered.
I looked into those linear servos. They are proud of them! I’m not sure I have many other options unfortunately. I’m doing a full cockpit from Jiri at jpwarbirds so I’d love to be able to properly display it. I just need to decide if a servo powered canopy is worth it or just go man powered.
03-01-2022, 07:41 AM
#222
Senior Member
Yes, they do like them, but they are reliable, and actuonix stands behind their stuff.
Once installed, you shouldn't have to mess with it.
There might be another possibility if you have an old set of electric retracts laying around. If so, look at the actuators on those and see if theu could be adapted. Would depend on how they are designed, but could work.
The actuonix would be my choice as no modification to the actuator would need to be required.
Just depends on how you want to hook it to the canopy. No matter how you do it, a slot and tab through the exterior is going to be a requirement, which means a long slit cut into all that nice sheeting and it will always be visible.
Personally, man powered is my opinion after all the work getting the Fuse perfect. If you know anyone with a Hanger 9 mustang close by, go take a look at the canopy setup closely.
If not, I'll get pictures of mine. I've even debated on gotting rid of the sliding canopy in favor of covering the slit in the turtledeck.
After the Lightning is built and flying, I'll probably end up selling the Hanger 9 and have Rumen do me a 1/5 mustang to take its place. Theres a number of things about it that just aggrivate me, but without stripping it to the framing, I can't do much about. Just easier to build a Fokkerc and do it right from the get go.
What I get for buying an ARF,. Lol
As it is, I think I'm going to have to perform surgery on the horizontsl stabs..the way they mount just...irks me and I have no faith in it. Been debating that for a week...pulling the covering, etc and doing it right, installing blocks on top and bottom of the tube, with blindnuts so a proper bolt can go in. Aggrivating.
Once installed, you shouldn't have to mess with it.
There might be another possibility if you have an old set of electric retracts laying around. If so, look at the actuators on those and see if theu could be adapted. Would depend on how they are designed, but could work.
The actuonix would be my choice as no modification to the actuator would need to be required.
Just depends on how you want to hook it to the canopy. No matter how you do it, a slot and tab through the exterior is going to be a requirement, which means a long slit cut into all that nice sheeting and it will always be visible.
Personally, man powered is my opinion after all the work getting the Fuse perfect. If you know anyone with a Hanger 9 mustang close by, go take a look at the canopy setup closely.
If not, I'll get pictures of mine. I've even debated on gotting rid of the sliding canopy in favor of covering the slit in the turtledeck.
After the Lightning is built and flying, I'll probably end up selling the Hanger 9 and have Rumen do me a 1/5 mustang to take its place. Theres a number of things about it that just aggrivate me, but without stripping it to the framing, I can't do much about. Just easier to build a Fokkerc and do it right from the get go.
What I get for buying an ARF,. Lol
As it is, I think I'm going to have to perform surgery on the horizontsl stabs..the way they mount just...irks me and I have no faith in it. Been debating that for a week...pulling the covering, etc and doing it right, installing blocks on top and bottom of the tube, with blindnuts so a proper bolt can go in. Aggrivating.
Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 03-01-2022 at 07:48 AM.
03-01-2022, 09:39 AM
#223
I have been thinking a lot about a sliding canopy for a scratch built project. At this point I'm leaning toward using the available slides and using a micro servo with an over sized arm or a lopsided bell-crank to get the travel length I need. I haven't put anything on paper its all in my head.
03-01-2022, 12:13 PM
#224
Senior Member
It would work, as long as the canopy moved freely. The issue with the bell crank you may face is needing a higher torque servo as you would lose some torque to the bell crank being different lengths and to overcome the slop that a bell crank introduces. If ypu can minimize that, and get enough torque, it would work fine.
Actuator or linear servo eliminates the headache.
The struggle I have with automating a canopy is putting things visible from the exterior that arent there on a full scale....
If ypu are scratch building, you could, theoretically, design the canopy frame so that your linkage could be hidden in the tracks, eliminating the need for cuts through the sheeting to accomodate a cerntered single linkage.A few, fast, thoughts on that..
1. Uding pull pull line and a small pulley at the end of each track, hooked to either an actuator or servo.
2. Linkage hooked to a centered actuator, extensions from actuator arm to line linkage up with the teacks.
1. Would be simpler, fairly straight forward, be a matter of making, or finding pulkeys to do it, but then cones the problem, how to make it slide forward..two more pulleys at the front..done as a loop. Two more pulleys behind the max servo or actuator travel to the rear so as the actuator moves forward it pulls the lines connected at canopy front pulling the canopy clised, and pulls the back part of the loop to open, so all force used is pulling force, no push. Hidden linkage. Getting the teavel you need is simply a matter of pulley size and line length..
Actuator or linear servo eliminates the headache.
The struggle I have with automating a canopy is putting things visible from the exterior that arent there on a full scale....
If ypu are scratch building, you could, theoretically, design the canopy frame so that your linkage could be hidden in the tracks, eliminating the need for cuts through the sheeting to accomodate a cerntered single linkage.A few, fast, thoughts on that..
1. Uding pull pull line and a small pulley at the end of each track, hooked to either an actuator or servo.
2. Linkage hooked to a centered actuator, extensions from actuator arm to line linkage up with the teacks.
1. Would be simpler, fairly straight forward, be a matter of making, or finding pulkeys to do it, but then cones the problem, how to make it slide forward..two more pulleys at the front..done as a loop. Two more pulleys behind the max servo or actuator travel to the rear so as the actuator moves forward it pulls the lines connected at canopy front pulling the canopy clised, and pulls the back part of the loop to open, so all force used is pulling force, no push. Hidden linkage. Getting the teavel you need is simply a matter of pulley size and line length..
Last edited by Txmustangflyer; 03-01-2022 at 12:25 PM.
