Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > Kit Building
Reload this Page >

Carl Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 Brotherhood.

Notices
Kit Building If you're building a kit and have questions or want to discuss kit building post it here.

Carl Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 Brotherhood.

Old 02-26-2019, 07:50 AM
  #2226  
acdii
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Capron, IL
Posts: 9,996
Received 97 Likes on 88 Posts
Default

And now owned by Horizon and will never ever be available again, nor will any of the Great Planes kits, or Top Flite.
Old 03-04-2019, 02:42 AM
  #2227  
imcrazy
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hi.
I am starting to strip a Goldberg Ultimate. I would be interested to hear from guys that have done it. It has a glued on canopy and the great planes mesh style hinge material. did you cut the control surfaces off the plane and re slot the hinge? I would like to replace the hinge with robart pin hinges,can it be done easily with the bevels done?
will the canopy glue loosen up with heat?
Any tips on getting the blue ultracote that stains the wood off? the covering came off easy but it has stained the wood, head gun and razer blade scraping does good, but?
thanks
Old 03-04-2019, 05:26 AM
  #2228  
J.Paul Saure
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Concepcion, CHILE
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by imcrazy
Hi.
I am starting to strip a Goldberg Ultimate. I would be interested to hear from guys that have done it. It has a glued on canopy and the great planes mesh style hinge material. did you cut the control surfaces off the plane and re slot the hinge? I would like to replace the hinge with robart pin hinges,can it be done easily with the bevels done?
will the canopy glue loosen up with heat?
Any tips on getting the blue ultracote that stains the wood off? the covering came off easy but it has stained the wood, head gun and razer blade scraping does good, but?
thanks

Be ware with the heat, it could distort the canopy badly!!!
I would try with a sharp blade and patience.
Old 03-09-2019, 11:55 AM
  #2229  
mRqS
 
mRqS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Venray, NETHERLANDS
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hi. I'ts been a quite some time since I've been here (life and other models in mean time)
Finally, I've been able to fly my Ultimate (this one http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/12099049-post1746.html )

After some troubles with the engine (Saito 120), probably caused by long time not being used, I've finally made it to run.
What a surprise - after many years (it's the older version of this engine) it run perfectly.
i've had no excuse and had to fly the bipe

It flies great and stable! The only issue I have is the wire landing gear, that flex a lot during landing on the grass.
The last flight ended up with the nose over and broken vertical and stab.

Any chance, someone could take the dimensions of the original landing gear skirts? I want to make the landing gear stiffer before next flights.

Thanks in advance!
Old 03-09-2019, 12:38 PM
  #2230  
imcrazy
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default




I have been reconditioning a gbu. I put Robert hinges , new OS 1.20 2 stroke and a freshen up.
Old 03-10-2019, 04:12 AM
  #2231  
J.Paul Saure
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Concepcion, CHILE
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by imcrazy



I have been reconditioning a gbu. I put Robert hinges , new OS 1.20 2 stroke and a freshen up.
You can tell that was some really old school monokote, it didn't go away without a fight!!!!

The current stuff sticks only with a blowtorch...
...but it peels off just by looking at it!
Old 03-10-2019, 05:12 AM
  #2232  
imcrazy
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by J.Paul Saure
You can tell that was some really old school monokote, it didn't go away without a fight!!!!

The current stuff sticks only with a blowtorch...
...but it peels off just by looking at it!
yup, your rite. I am forced to recover the same color. The wood is stained blue.

The wood around the Cabanes is broken making big holes . I put the Cabanes in then taped around them. Then took them back out and used epoxy and glassed over the holes on the inside and using the tape as a template on the outside . I will cut the glass and give it a nice slot for the Cabanes again.
After I remove the tape I have to fill it with something the ultracote will stick to. Epoxy and microballoons will make a nice filler but the covering won't stick to that.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Old 03-10-2019, 09:37 PM
  #2233  
peternj
My Feedback: (5)
 
peternj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Monroe Township, NJ
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

You can use Acetone to wipe most of that glue off. Give it a light sand. Spray it with white dope. Sand it. Spray it again and sand it. And you're set.

But I think white will cover it, so will red, yellow will bleed through.
Old 03-10-2019, 09:42 PM
  #2234  
peternj
My Feedback: (5)
 
peternj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Monroe Township, NJ
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

The other thing you could have done is to heat the covering so that it would pull of with the film
Old 03-11-2019, 04:12 AM
  #2235  
imcrazy
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by peternj
You can use Acetone to wipe most of that glue off. Give it a light sand. Spray it with white dope. Sand it. Spray it again and sand it. And you're set.

But I think white will cover it, so will red, yellow will bleed through.
i have a few rolls of the same blue and cub yellow so I will go with that.
I painted the frame with balsarite already.
Going to fit the new engine today
I want to add some flying wires..
Thanks
Old 03-20-2019, 01:00 AM
  #2236  
jescardin
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Talamanca de JaramaMadrid, SPAIN
Posts: 583
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mRqS
Hi. I'ts been a quite some time since I've been here (life and other models in mean time)
Finally, I've been able to fly my Ultimate (this one http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/12099049-post1746.html )

After some troubles with the engine (Saito 120), probably caused by long time not being used, I've finally made it to run.
What a surprise - after many years (it's the older version of this engine) it run perfectly.
i've had no excuse and had to fly the bipe

It flies great and stable! The only issue I have is the wire landing gear, that flex a lot during landing on the grass.
The last flight ended up with the nose over and broken vertical and stab.

Any chance, someone could take the dimensions of the original landing gear skirts? I want to make the landing gear stiffer before next flights.

Thanks in advance!
Marek, I think you should go better with a fiberglass or carbon fiber landig gear.

At least here in Spain it is quite easy to find such a gear with a very close size to that of the CG Ultimate. My own one is the RTF version which mounts an aluminium gear; it is stiffer than the wire gear but you still have to make sweet landings for not bending it. Anyway every four or five landings it always need some sort of straightening!.

If you would like the alu gear size just ask and I will measure it for you.

Best Regards.

Last edited by jescardin; 03-20-2019 at 01:10 AM.
Old 04-15-2019, 10:51 AM
  #2237  
evlknevl
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: , NY
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hey guys. I have a CG Ultimate.90-1.20 ARF. I built it 20+ years ago when I wasn’t the best pilot (I’m still not lol). I went overboard and spent too much making it the pride of my hanger. Coreless servos, pull pull rudder, and the real wallet crusher a O.S. Gemini 1.60. I have/had so much money into 1 plane for a 21 yr old I was afraid to fly it.

The day of its maiden I only got 2 flights out of it before it went deadstick too close to the ground to blead off speed or go around. I was forced to skim it down the runway and finally nose the prop into the ground to stop before hitting a parked vehicle beyond the runway. Lucky there was no damage but the carb was full of dirt so that was the end of flying that day. The carb was cleaned and engine tested. All was well but it didn’t fly again for 20 years. I finally pulled it down from the rafters, freed up the engine, replaced the FM receiver for 2.4ghz installed new batteries and a glow driver and sent her up. She flew great but needed a decent amount of trim. I decided to adjust the clevises instead of adjusting the sub trims and broke a 20 yr old plastic clevis. Time to replace all of them before it’s next flight. What other upgrades should I consider to improve on an already great plane.

I will I’ll try to go back and read the whole thread but that’s A LOT of reading.

Only a few landings 4 to be exact, and the gear mount was coming loose. One more landing would have probably cause he gear to rip off. I’m sure skimming across the ground at high speed the day of its maiden didn’t help but it wasn’t a hard impact. The last 2 from a few weeks ago were smooth as can be. But the plane is heavy with the motor. The gear actually spreads out as you set the plane down by hand.

BTW it has unlimited vertical at 1/2 throttle lol.
Old 04-15-2019, 11:33 AM
  #2238  
acdii
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Capron, IL
Posts: 9,996
Received 97 Likes on 88 Posts
Default

I bought a hanger queen with a Gemini 120 on it. It flew well, but same as yours the clevises broke, thankfully not in flight. I replaced them all and ran glue into all joints I could reach as it was built using CA and had turned brittle. I lost the plane due to the throttle arm screw coming loose, so make sure yours is nice and tight! These planes do not fly with a tail wind when dead stick.
Old 04-15-2019, 12:01 PM
  #2239  
imcrazy
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default



I would pull on the hinges real good. And replace with Robert pin hinges if needed.
Old 04-15-2019, 01:53 PM
  #2240  
evlknevl
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: , NY
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I checked the hinges on all of my planes after my Extra almost died a misarable death due to a aileron hinge coming out. I have many flights on that plane. Life took me away from the hobby for quite a few years and the planes sat collecting dust. The extra was the 1st to see daylight and after about 6-8 flights I noticed the ailerons weren’t responding too good. I figured a servo went bad. When I landed only the outer hinge and the control linkage on the right wing were still attached.

Id also like to get a new cowl for the Ultimate if I can find one. When I cut the original out to fit over the engine I misjudged where the cowl would end up and have extra large openings for the heads. It doesn’t look terrible but it is still the pride of my hanger. I want it to look as good as it flies. I’ll post pics when I can. I don’t have enough posts yet.
Old 04-15-2019, 02:29 PM
  #2241  
vogelm1
My Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Arbor Vitae, WI
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by evlknevl
Hey guys. I have a CG Ultimate.90-1.20 ARF. I built it 20+ years ago when I wasn’t the best pilot (I’m still not lol). I went overboard and spent too much making it the pride of my hanger. Coreless servos, pull pull rudder, and the real wallet crusher a O.S. Gemini 1.60. I have/had so much money into 1 plane for a 21 yr old I was afraid to fly it.

The day of its maiden I only got 2 flights out of it before it went deadstick too close to the ground to blead off speed or go around. I was forced to skim it down the runway and finally nose the prop into the ground to stop before hitting a parked vehicle beyond the runway. Lucky there was no damage but the carb was full of dirt so that was the end of flying that day. The carb was cleaned and engine tested. All was well but it didn’t fly again for 20 years. I finally pulled it down from the rafters, freed up the engine, replaced the FM receiver for 2.4ghz installed new batteries and a glow driver and sent her up. She flew great but needed a decent amount of trim. I decided to adjust the clevises instead of adjusting the sub trims and broke a 20 yr old plastic clevis. Time to replace all of them before it’s next flight. What other upgrades should I consider to improve on an already great plane.

I will I’ll try to go back and read the whole thread but that’s A LOT of reading.

Only a few landings 4 to be exact, and the gear mount was coming loose. One more landing would have probably cause he gear to rip off. I’m sure skimming across the ground at high speed the day of its maiden didn’t help but it wasn’t a hard impact. The last 2 from a few weeks ago were smooth as can be. But the plane is heavy with the motor. The gear actually spreads out as you set the plane down by hand.

BTW it has unlimited vertical at 1/2 throttle lol.
Is the landing gear on ARF version also wire like the kit? If so, you may want to consider replacing with a carbon fiber gear - it's much lighter and stiffer, which should alleviate the sagging you have now. Graph Tech makes one that fits perfect and it's part number #114. It's made for an Aeroworks Yak or Extra, but has the same dimensions as needed for the Ultimate.
Old 04-15-2019, 03:03 PM
  #2242  
evlknevl
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: , NY
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

It has the aluminum gear. I was thinking about either adding a spring pulling the wheels together or just a cable from side to side to prevent the sag. A carbon fiber does sound like a good idea though. I’ll look into that.
Old 04-15-2019, 03:52 PM
  #2243  
imcrazy
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by evlknevl
I checked the hinges on all of my planes after my Extra almost died a misarable death due to a aileron hinge coming out. I have many flights on that plane. Life took me away from the hobby for quite a few years and the planes sat collecting dust. The extra was the 1st to see daylight and after about 6-8 flights I noticed the ailerons weren’t responding too good. I figured a servo went bad. When I landed only the outer hinge and the control linkage on the right wing were still attached.

Id also like to get a new cowl for the Ultimate if I can find one. When I cut the original out to fit over the engine I misjudged where the cowl would end up and have extra large openings for the heads. It doesn’t look terrible but it is still the pride of my hanger. I want it to look as good as it flies. I’ll post pics when I can. I don’t have enough posts yet.
Fiberglas specialties has cowls. I just bought one
Old 04-20-2019, 07:22 AM
  #2244  
rsrguy3
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: liberty, UT
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Happy to see this thread is still going strong, I just picked up mine this week and scored a os91fx to power it!
Old 05-25-2019, 05:08 PM
  #2245  
warbird_1
My Feedback: (61)
 
warbird_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Perry,NY
Posts: 2,577
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default









just finished my 30 year old kit. fitted it with a rimfire .80 using a 6s 4500 pack . almost unlimited vertical . CG at the mid point and i have to tim up elevator for level flight. i'm thinking i'm to nose heavy . i am at the mid point on the CG and thoughts?
Old 05-25-2019, 08:43 PM
  #2246  
J.Paul Saure
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Concepcion, CHILE
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by warbird_1


just finished my 30 year old kit. fitted it with a rimfire .80 using a 6s 4500 pack . almost unlimited vertical . CG at the mid point and i have to tim up elevator for level flight. i'm thinking i'm to nose heavy . i am at the mid point on the CG and thoughts?
Hi there!
I just re-maidened my Ultimate today. I changed elevator servos (S9001) to the tail and removed the heavy pushrods. I also went with the "hot dog" throws from the manual, WOW.
I kept the 77grams of lead I installed inside the tail, Saito 125 in the nose. AND I BUILT IT LIGHT.
I think I could go even with more tail weight, but enough for now. At this point it removed some of the up trim elevator, but not all of it. I aligned wings and tail with the incidence meter when I built it, so it's the CG.

I don't remember my exact CG with both wings attached… …last times I just measured a "relative" CG with ONLY THE BOTTOM WING ATTACHED.
My CG was at 90mm from the bottom wing leading edge, ONLY WITH THE BOTTOM WING ATTACHED.
Now it went back to 96mm from the bottom wing leading edge, ONLY WITH THE BOTTOM WING ATTACHED.


PS with the "hot dog" throws I could do a flat spin and knife edge loops.
But I couldn't get it to lomcevak. I'm using an APC 15x8 with the Saito 125. Maybe with the APX 16x6 it could do it….!!!

PS2 I'm also flying it with JETI now!!!! Great choice!

Last edited by J.Paul Saure; 05-25-2019 at 08:45 PM.
Old 05-26-2019, 07:32 AM
  #2247  
acdii
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Capron, IL
Posts: 9,996
Received 97 Likes on 88 Posts
Default

How are you compensating for the weight of the top wing? If you want the perfect CG, use a Vanessa Rig with the plane fully assembled. I gave up trying to point balance planes, especially when they tend to slip off prior to getting the weight placed for balance. Before I lost mine to the throttle arm coming loose on the carb, mine was balanced to the point no trim was needed and it flew great. l may get around to rebuilding it some day, both wings survived, only the points where the wings attach to each other snapped off, and the fuse is intact from cockpit back, most of the front structure is there, but cracked. The wood was pretty much fuel soaked when I got it, so most will have to be replaced anyway. It was a fun plane the couple times I flew it.
Old 05-26-2019, 07:57 AM
  #2248  
J.Paul Saure
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Concepcion, CHILE
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I use the simple CG machine from Greatplanes...
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXK259

Before the first flight (years ago) I measured CG WITH the top wing.
Much later, when shifting the CG back for fine adjustment, I just measured WITHOUT the top wing, as I just wanted to measure the CG "shift" and not the actual CG. So I do not compensate...

Sadly I forgot to write down the first CG position so I don't know where it is "now".
I only know it is 6mm (1/4in app.) to the back as before...!
I normally place the first CG in the middle of the suggested range...

I flew the plane yesterday and I'm sure it can handle even another 1/4in (6mm) to the back...

Saudos,
Jean Paul
Old 05-26-2019, 08:15 AM
  #2249  
Borseth
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Bold and beautiful colour scheme warbird_1. I love it!

As for the CG the Ultimate is quite tolerant. It should even be safe at the rearmost position on the plan. Just be aware that if you go further back than the CG range shown on the plan you’ll need to keep the speed up(relatively) on landing, or it WILL drop a wing(two
wings?).

I usually start with the CG in the middle range and move it back in small steps ‘til the plane holds a inverted 45 degrees upline without pilot input.
I them measure the CG for future references in case of repairs or modifications.
Old 05-26-2019, 08:34 AM
  #2250  
J.Paul Saure
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Concepcion, CHILE
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The Vanessa rig looks very interesting.
I will try it with my next plane!

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.